Sugar

Pure sweetness. High-quality white sugar should be neutral, providing a clean lift without any aftertaste.

Brown sugars bring the extra noise: caramel, toffee and malty notes from the molasses.

It's sugar. It gives you energy, quickly. Everyone knows that.

There's no getting around it, eat too much and you'll feel it. Fine in small doses, but don't pretend it's a health food.

Go for caster sugar in most baking. The smaller crystals dissolve faster and give you a more consistent texture.

Muscovado is great if you want moisture and a deep molasses hit.

Avoid the cheapest 'white' sugar if it looks grey or dusty. You want clean, brilliant white crystals.

Keep it in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.

Sugar is hygroscopic, which is a fancy way of saying it sucks moisture out of the air. If it gets damp, it clumps.

If your brown sugar has turned into a rock, stick a piece of bread or a slice of apple in the jar for a few hours. It will soften right up.

Sugar does more than just sweeten. It helps cakes rise by trapping air during creaming, keeps bread moist, and gives cookies their crisp edges.

It is also a master of balance. A pinch can take the edge off bitter greens or sharpen the brightness of a tomato sauce.